Rural Ireland may be most famous for its uninterrupted “Emerald Isle” greenery, but it’s even more of a pleasure to watch its leaves turn gold and amber. Among other forested spots, this spectrum of late autumn foliage is reflected most beautifully in Lough Corrib, the body of water at the foot of Ashford Castle, arguably Ireland’s best hotel and one of the most storied.  

This 800-year-old residence has a pleasing mix of outdoor living and cosy creature comforts that will suit your holiday mood as the season changes. This is a place where you can pull on a cashmere sweater for walks through the 350 acres of grounds, then dress up for dinner before a nightcap by the fireplace in the Prince of Wales Bar.  

While the hotel was recently named the fourth best in Europe (in the Conde Nast Traveller Reader’s Choice Awards, in the “Rest of Europe” category), it’s been a magnet for A-listers, leaders and trendsetters for more than a century: Oscar Wilde, King George V, John Lennon and Barbra Streisand have all stayed, whether in the building’s years as a private home or its subsequent life as a luxury hotel. Here’s how to enjoy this landmark hotel in the atmospheric holiday season months.  

Stay at Ashford Castle on: Ultimate Ireland and Castles and Kingdoms

Outdoor pursuits

Credit: @ashfordcastle on Instagram

As well as heart-pumping walks through the lakeside, woodland and hills around the castle, guests visiting in late autumn can take full advantage of the cooler days to get out and about. Ashford is home to the oldest established falconry school in Ireland, where you’ll get to grips with these beautiful, huge-clawed birds of prey. Try the Hawk Walk experience, where you’ll embark on an atmospheric forest stroll with your own avine companion, giving them room to explore before swooping back to your gloved hand.  

Clay shooting and archery are both quintessential countryside experiences to acquaint you with your surroundings, while a lakeside cruise or fishing trip will get you out on the smooth, rippling waters of Lough Corrib, where the bronzed treetops frame a tranquil view as you cast your rod from a hand-crafted 19ft traditional wooden clinker.  

Equestrian types can enjoy Ireland’s best hotel on horseback. Saddle up with instructors or guides for lessons and trail rides, trotting out to the spectacular paths around the Lough, neighbouring woodland and into the mountains of Connemara to see the rural beauty of the county the way Ashford’s 19th-century guests did. 

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Sublime seasonal cuisine

Credit: @ashfordcastle on Instagram

Ornate wood panelling, Waterford crystal chandeliers and period fireplaces characterise the dining and drinking haunts at Ashford Castle. But the chef’s vision for your meals is entirely modern: seasonal, local Irish produce is the priority in the George V dining room, where you can graze your way through tangy St Tola goat’s cheese from County Clare, lobster from Rossaveel, 60km away, and lamb loin from Kinvara, just the other side of Galway. The real highlight for many is the restaurant’s signature 28-day-aged Chateaubriand and braised cheek, which is carved for two from a vintage-style chef’s trolley in front of you.  

Autumnal fare in Ashford’s restaurants might include woodland girolle mushrooms, a spiced pumpkin soup or gourmet takes on root vegetables such as parsnip and carrot. Meanwhile, chilly October or November mornings cry out for a Full Irish breakfast before you set off to explore: think sausages from Andarl Farm, 40km north of where you sit, plus sizzling Irish bacon, black and white pudding, mushroom, tomato and eggs to order.  What better way to stay the day at Ireland’s best hotel?

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Warming spa sessions  

Credit: @ashfordcastle on Instagram

After a day out on the Lough, with the falconry team or simply driving through County Mayo’s autumn foliage, an hour or three at the hotel’s world-class spa beckons. There’s a reason why this pampering palace has been named Ireland’s Best Spa for eight consecutive years at the World Spa Awards: as well as lavish interiors featuring chandeliers, lashings of gold and a striking Tree of Life mural, it has palatial treatment rooms with big-windowed views of the countryside, plus a hammam and relaxation pool.   

Keen walkers and jet-lagged long haulers can ease tense muscles with an aromatic massage using Voya seaweed products, where therapists tap into a long Irish tradition of using the coastal flora for healing and soothing purposes. Meanwhile a nourishing Natura Bissé facial will plump out dry skin after encounters with wind and rain, and an Ashford hammam session employs Atlantic salt and seaweed soap for an invigorating, inimitably Irish take on the Arabic spa tradition.  

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Stay in Ireland’s best hotel and discover the magic of the Emerald Isle on Ultimate Ireland and Castles and Kingdoms

Oozing 1920’s glamour, the Hotel Esplanade Zagreb is a cultural historic icon of Croatia’s capital. The place to see and be seen, in the words of its General Manager Ivica Krizmanic, “If there’s one hotel in Croatia that everyone has heard about, it’s the Esplanade.”

We had the pleasure of speaking to Ivica, to learn more about what Luxury Gold guests can expect from a stay at the Esplanade, and discover what it is the secret to running such an exceptional hotel.

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Orient Express origins

“The reason why this caliber of hotel was first built in the city was due to the Orient Express, which was passing through Zagreb,” Ivica explains. “In the 1920s, it was necessary to have an exceptional five-star hotel to accommodate the train’s high-society passengers. The Esplanade hotel was built in two years, and it’s been something special from the first day it opened in 1925.”

Designed in the Art Deco style by architect Dionis Sunko the Hotel Esplanade Zagreb quickly became a symbol of luxury and elegance in the city. A full refurbishment in 2004 elevated the interiors and amenities to new heights. “We had a great architect and interior designer who ensured that the Esplanade spirit stayed intact,” says Ivica. “The design really blended together the history with the modern design from today’s era.”

Stay at the Esplanade Hotel Zagreb on Croatia & The Dalmatian Coast

It’s all about love and passion

“My father actually worked here before me, for 30 years. He’s the reason why I am here,” Ivica tells us. “In 1992, as a student, he asked me to help out. It was just for a month as a doorman, because they needed some extra staff, and that is where it all began. I was immediately in love with the hotel and have been here ever since.

“For me, the secret to running such an exceptional hotel is love and passion. This is something that it’s necessary to have for the Esplanade because the hotel deserves people who are dedicated to the Esplanade spirit. For all of us here, this is not just a hotel, this is more of an institution. So, for us to work here is something much bigger.

“The Esplanade is a synonym for luxury and good service. People widely connect the hotel with something special. Numerous times I have been in other establishments and have overheard people say (maybe in response to a complaint) ‘you know this is not the Esplanade, Sir.’ It sets the standard.”

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Exquisite rooms

With its 208 rooms and suites, offering stunning views of the city, keeping everything running perfectly at the hotel Esplanade Zagreb is no small task. When we ask how many staff Ivica is responsible for, he tells us that “I have some 170 colleagues depending on the time of year, but we try to do this business with a homely, family feeling. So, I consider it to be that I work for them.

“The rooms are designed in a sophisticated Art Deco style, with all the modern touches needed for today’s travelers. They are all very welcoming and cozy, to make you feel at home. We have marble bathrooms with heated floors, the perfect place to relax and unwind.”

Sumptuous beds, stunning city views and first-class room service complete the picture. Guests can also benefit from the hotel’s exclusive Health Club, offering a range of range of therapies to de-stress, replenish and revitalize.

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Exceptional dining

“I spend lot of time testing the food in the restaurants,” Ivica tells us, an important yet not undesirable part of his role as General Manager. From ‘high society-inspired dining to modern Mediterranean chic’ the Esplanade’s award-winning restaurants are worth a booking in their own right, with Executive Chef Ana Grgić Tomić at the helm.

Considered one of Zagreb’s finest, Zinfandel’s Restaurant combines the best local ingredients with a broad Mediterranean inspiration. “Here you can see a more Mediterranean style with modern food,” says Ivica, “with local specialties like sea bass baked in sea salt, Istrian truffles or steak tartar.”

Or for ‘seductive French cuisine’ Le Bistro celebrates a wide range of seasonal local produce, and also one particularly famous dish. “We have one signature dish – actually it’s a local specialty but this recipe is exclusive to the hotel – the legendary Esplanade Štrukli,” says Ivica. “It’s a baked pastry, made from thin sheets of dough, filled with fresh cottage cheese with cream. It’s sounds simple, but it’s very tasty and people really love it.”

“We change the menu in both restaurants three or four times a year, reflecting the seasons. You’ll see a mix of international cuisine, with influences from our neighbors. We’re surrounded by Italy and Austria, and obviously close to Bosnia and Herzegovina, which has a different culinary profile.”

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A treat for guests, from sunrise to sunset

The ultimate iteration of 1920’s decadence, the Oleander Terrace at the Esplanade offers stunning views across the city, and provides the perfect setting for some enjoyable people watching. A preferred spot for elegant breakfasts, high society lunching, and music and jazz evenings with a stylish Champagne bar. “To stay in the Esplanade Hotel and have a breakfast in the morning on the Oleander Terrace is considered something special,” says Ivica.

 “And in the evening, to relax, the place to be is definitely the Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail Bar for the signature cocktails.” Run by some of the best Croatia’s mixologists the bar offers an enticing range of cocktails dating back to the days of the 1920’s Flapper.

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The secret to exceptional service lies in the people

When staying at the Esplanade, each guest is treated as a VIP by attentive and professional staff. “To offer such exceptional service, we focus on finding the right people,” explains Ivica. “We are not necessarily focusing on hospitality experience as we wish to mold them in the Esplanade way – we look for someone with passion.

“Not only love and passion for guests and the hospitality industry, but people who have a connection with the hotel, are proud to work here and willing to do their part to justify our enduring reputation. This takes a special type of person.

“We also empower people to be brave enough to make the special service, to not be afraid to be spontaneous and try something new to satisfy our guests when required.”

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Royal guests and dignitaries

While no two days are the same when working in a hotel, some stand out as special for their own reasons. “We often host state leaders, presidents and royal family members,” says Ivica. “They’re always greeted by myself.

“One day I was waiting, with the Royal assistant, for a Queen and Prince in the lobby. They were attending a lunch at the Presidential Office and, as per protocol, timing was of the utmost importance.  As the Queen and the Prince stepped out of the elevator, we realized that the Prince and the Royal assistant were wearing the same tie. Definitely against protocol!

“There was no time for the Prince to return to the room and change. So, realizing what had happened and thinking quick I just took my tie and gave it to the to the royal assistant. I didn’t think much more of it, but when they came back to the hotel they were talking about the lunch and were saying how I saved the protocol. But it’s all in a day’s work at a hotel such as this.”

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The Esplanade Hotel Zagreb is part of the city

It is said that of Zagreb that ‘life is lived on the streets of the city itself, with public art, street food, and majestic green parks delighting locals and tourists alike in all four seasons.’ As well as being an enchanting Croatian walled city, one of the fabulous things about the capital city is that the region is lush with nature parks.

The Esplanade is perfectly placed to explore the city – just one more reason to select this iconic establishment when considering where to stay in Zagreb. Ivica tells us “it is an important part of Zagreb’s upper town.” One of Zagreb’s main attractions, the historic old town, Upper Town (Gornji Grad) is a myriad of cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and iconic landmarks like St. Mark’s Church. “Here you can feel really a special history. It’s so preserved that it’s still feels like 100 years ago.” Yet the city is credited as being young and playful at heart.

“Zagreb is a big and small city,” he continues. “Almost everything is within walking distance. So, it is very relaxing for the people to explore. There are a lot of small museums and interesting places, but nothing particular that you have to visit, that is what is so nice about it. It’s very romantic everywhere and there are a lot of coffee shops where people sit outside and watch the movie of life unfold around you.”

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A symbol of Croatia

“We’re proud to represent Zagreb to the world,” says Ivica. “But even more that we represent Croatia. There are a lot of nice hotels in this beautiful country, but there is only one hotel that everybody knows about. If you ask your taxi driver or whoever you meet which hotel is the best in in Croatia, even they have never been for themselves they will say The Esplanade. Even those not from this country.

“Every day is history, and every day is special. Each and every one of our guests are exceptional and make each day memorable. I’ve spent 31 years in the hotel, but every day I’ll see something new, I’ll never grow tired of the Esplanade.”

To experience the magic of the Hotel Esplanade, Zagreb for yourself and enjoy the ultimate Croatian vacation, take a look at our sensational Croatia & The Dalmatian Coast luxury tour.

No journey to Italy is complete without walking sun drenched vineyards and sipping limited edition vintages. For a taste of Tuscany to savor forever you’re invited to the charming Guardastelle Estate in San Gimignino to join the owners for a personal and private wine tasting tour.

We had the privilege to speak with Fausto, owner and wine producer of the Guardastelle Estate to learn what goes into producing a certified wine, harvest predictions and how to perfect the art of wine tasting.

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Exclusive wine, with a personal touch

“Guardastelle Estate is considered one of the smallest establishments in the area,” Fausto explains. “We have 12 acres of vineyards plus five acres of olive trees from which we also produce extra virgin olive oil.

“We produce five wines in small quantities so, we are very exclusive. For two of our vintages, we produce about 6000 bottles each, and only 3000 for the other three types. And they are only available here – you won’t find our wines in stores, restaurants or the nearest town.

“At Guardastelle, as a boutique winery we’ve always been focused on people coming to our farm, to see firsthand the vineyards and try the wines. Each bears the DOCG certification, a sign of excellence and the most important certification of Italian wines.”

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DOCG – the elite classification

DOCG or Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita is the is the highest classification Italian wines can be awarded. The classification means that there are controlled production methods (controllata) and guaranteed wine quality (garantita) with each bottle.

This includes regulations such as no irrigation, maximum vineyard elevation, and regulations on ageing and maximum alcohol levels.

A private tour

As a guest of Luxury Gold, you’ll enjoy a private tour of the vineyards and the wine cellar. You’ll hear all about the production process and enjoy a taste of Tuscany. “We’ll explain what kind of varieties we have, and why we have these varieties relating to the certification to the DOCG and part of the production.

“For the tasting we present three wines from the current the vintage. These are usually the three DOCGs – the vernaccia white wine which is the local specialty, and the chiantis.”

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A boutique family business

“This is a family business, so we are involved in all the processes since from the winemaking to the tasting,” says Fausto. “This also dictates how to make the wines. We are a very small farm, so it is not possible to harvest the grapes with the machine for example, so we do it by hand.”

“We’ve no official record but architects say that the farmhouse is probably from the middle of the 1400’s. This is because that the walls were made with a specific technique which is the same used to build the famous towers of San Gimignano town.

“My wife’s family purchased it in the middle of the 1980’s. From the young age of 21, she restarted the vineyard and wine production with three classic DOCG wines that she has now produced for almost 30 years. The estate has also produced extra virgin olive oil from the start.

“In 2017 we started to work on a couple of new wines which were born in 2021. So now we have the five typologies of wines.”

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True Chianti and Vernaccia

“San Gimignano is in the chianti wine region, a wine which has been produced in Italy for about five centuries,” says Fausto. “To preserve the original characteristics of Italian winemaking and its wines, the government introduced regulations to keep a high standard quality product. This is the DOCG and is the certification that allows us to call our wine chianti.”

“Chianti must be made with a minimum of 75% of Sangiovese (a grape), and then there are few other varieties that we are allowed to use to blend. Even though it is possible to make a chianti from 100% Sangiovese, usually they are made with a blend of grapes.”

All the wines produced by Tenuta Guardastelle bear this important DOCG certification. Some 78 red wines across Italy (including chianti) are on the list. There is however only one white wine included, the Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a native grape variety with ancient historical origins. Renowned for its remarkable ageing capacity, it makes an excellent aperitif, pairs well with legumes and is exquisite with white meats.

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Manual harvest

“The DOCG regulations do not dictate how to harvest, whether by hand or machinery, or how to press the grapes. So, these methods depend entirely on the size of the farm,” Fausto explains.

“As we are small, we do a manual harvest, which is also better anyway for the grape’s quality. This helps to produce a natural, rather high sugar content in the berries, so that the DOCG standards are easily met.”

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It’s all in the timing

“The DOGC does regulate the days that you can harvest, although the time frame is very large. The time to harvest is dependent on the varieties and it depends a lot on the weather,” Fausto says. “We know by the experience that the harvest time is around the beginning of September for the white grapes and middle third week of September for the red varieties.

“So, a few days before the planned harvest we start to control the grapes. We go in the vineyards and pick a few from all over the field. The grapes are then mixed together, because different parts of the vineyards can have slightly different maturation, before making an average of the sugar content.”

“We also taste them – with experience you know from their softness if they’re ready. Then we look at the weather forecast to see that maybe these grapes need a week but if the weather is going to be bad, then we may need to harvest them in a couple of days.

“This, a taste of Tuscany, is probably one of the best parts. Because it’s almost ready. It’s such a great feeling – every year is a new project with a new vintage.”

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Time to mature – a unique minerality

“Some of these wines take up to three years to be ready,” Fausto explains. “So, we will harvest the year’s vintages around the start of October, and the white will start to serve as a wine tasting in almost two years. And the Chianti about four years.

“This is our personal choice because of the composition of the soil. Here the soil has a high minerality that gives a very high freshness to the wine, so it needs longer to mature.

“So, for example, not all the vernacchio’s of the area are the same, and we usually don’t have the youngest of the vernacchio possible to taste. Because the other Tuscan wineries and vineyards don’t have such a high minerality, the life of their vernaccio is much shorter.”

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Tasting tips

“We always guide guests through the tasting, a taste of Tuscany” says Fausto. “We explain the three types of analysis. First is the visual, to check the color if the wine is clear or cloudy, and we show you how to do it with the white napkin on the back of the glass.

“Then comes smell. Here we don’t say everything because we could stay a full day talking about it! We do tell you the categories that you can smell in a wine, depending on the variety. For example, vegetables or fruit. Then lastly, we have taste and we help you get deeper into the analysis. Every wine actually had different characteristics, or even if similar there are always some slight differences.

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Practice makes perfect

“Wine tasting is like learning a new language,” Fausto concludes. “You need to train and to try many different wines to try to understand the different flavors and tastes that different varieties can produce. The characteristics of, for example, a Chardonnay grape, when grown in Tuscany or other parts of Italy or the world are not the same. So keep practicing!”

To delight in a taste of Tuscany for yourself in this stunning chianti wine region, take a look at our Ultimate Italy small group journey